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Travel around Taiwan

taiwan-market.jpgதைவான் சென்று வந்தேன்

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சாவுத் தெரு என்கிற தெரு தைப்பே நகரில் இருப்பது தெரிந்ததும் “விடுங்கள் வண்டியை அங்கே!” என்று நான் சொல்லக் காரணம் இருந்தது.

மரணத்தைப் பற்றிய எண்ணம் தைவானியர்களுக்கு எப்படி இருக்கிறது என்று நான் அறிந்து கொள்ள விரும்பியதுதான்.

சென்னையில் ஆண்டர்சன் தெரு எனில், அது காகிதத் தெரு என்று சொல்லிவிடலாம். பந்தர் தெரு என்றால் அது பழக்கடை, செம்புதாஸ் தெரு என்றால் இரும்புக்கடை, தேவராஜ் தெரு என்றால் கண்ணாடி, அலுமினிய சமாசாரங்கள். நூறடிச் சாலை என்றால் பதிக்கக் (சுவரில், தரையில்) கூடிய கற்கள் கடை என்று சென்னையில் இருப்பது போல் தைப்பேயில் சில அதிசயக் தெருக்கள் உண்டு.

புத்தகங்களுக்காகவே ஒரு தெரு! (அட!). ஆண்களுக்கான ஆடைகளுக்கு என்றே ஒரு தெரு (சபாஷ்!) மத சம்பந்தமான பொருள்களுக்கென்றே ஒரு தெரு, திருமண உடைகளுக்கென்றே ஒரு தெரு, காலணிகளுக்கென்றே ஒரு தெரு என்று அட்டகாசமான தெருக்கள் உண்டு…

நாங்கள் சென்ற சாவுத் தெருவில் கூட்டம் அதிகம் இல்லை. ஆனால் இந்தத் தெருவில் வயதானவர்களைப் பார்த்தது அதிசயமோ ஆச்சரியமோ இல்லை. இளைஞர்களும் பெண்களும் இந்தத் தெருவில் காணப்பட்டதுதான் எனக்கு வியப்பாக இருந்தது.

இறுதிச் சடங்குகளுக்கு கிறித்துவ, பெளத்த மற்றும் பெளத்தரில் இருந்து பிரிந்த சில பிரிவு மதங்களைச் சேர்ந்தவர்கள் இறந்தால் என்னென்ன தேவையோ அவையெல்லாம் இருந்தன. சில விநோதமான (என்னவென்று பெயர் சொல்லத் தெரியாத வடிவங்களில் இருந்த) பொருள்களையும் கண்டேன்.

ஒரு வயதான தம்பதி இந்தக் கடைகளுள் ஒன்றில் அதன் உரிமையாளரிடம் உட்கார்ந்து பேசிக்கொண்டிருந்ததைக் கண்டேன். உடனே ஷான்யானின் தோளைச் சுரண்டினேன். இளம்பெண்களான டினுவுக்கும் மூனுக்கும் என்மீது கோபம் வந்திருக்கவேண்டும். ஷாப்பிங் போகிற ஆசையில் இருந்த நம்மை, இந்த இந்திய ஆசாமி இந்தச் சாவுத் தெருவுக்கு அழைத்து வந்து படுத்துகிறான்; நேரத்தை வேறு வீணாக்குகிறானே! என்கிற கோபம் வந்திருக்க வாய்ப்பு உண்டு.

இவர்களது முகம் எவ்வித உணர்ச்சியையும் காட்டாததால் என் ஊகம் சரியா என்பதை என்னால் உறுதிசெய்துகொள்ள முடியவில்லை.

ஷான்யான் திரும்பிப் பார்த்தார். கண்ணாடி வழியே தெரிந்த அந்த வயதான தம்பதியைச் சுட்டிக்காட்டி, “இவர்கள் இருவருக்கும் இங்கு என்ன வேலை” என்றேன்.

இதென்ன கேள்வி என்பதுபோல் என்னைப் பார்த்துவிட்டு, “தங்கள் மரணத்தின்போது தங்கள் பிள்ளைகள் நல்லபடியாக நல்லடக்கம் செய்வார்களோ இல்லையோ என்கிற ஐயத்தில் அல்லது தங்கள் பிள்ளைகளுக்குச் செலவு வைக்க வேண்டாம் என்கிற கோணத்தில் தங்கள் இறுதிச் செலவுக்கான பணத்தைச் செலுத்த வந்திருக்கிறார்கள்.”

“இவர்களது இறுதி யாத்திரையை அல்லது சடங்கை இந்தக் கடை எப்படிப் பொறுப்பேற்க முடியும்?”

“இன்றைக்கே இறந்தால் என்ன செலவு ஆகுமோ அதை இங்கு கட்டிவிட்டு இரசீதைத் தங்கள் தலைமுறையிடம் கொடுத்துவிடுவார்கள். அந்த இரசீதின் அடிப்படையில் இவர்கள் இறந்ததும் இவர்களது தலைமுறை இந்த இரசீதைக் காட்டும். இதன் அடிப்படையில் மேற்கொண்டு காரியங்கள் நடக்கும்.”

“வெகுநாள் கழித்து இறந்த, அந்நேரம் செலவினங்கள் உயர்ந்துவிட்டால்?”

இந்தப் பணம் வட்டி சேர்க்கும் அல்லவா, அதை வைத்துச் சமாளிக்க வேண்டியதுதான்.

“ரொம்ப அதிசயமாக இருக்கிறதே!”

“உங்கள் ஊரில்?”

“தங்களுக்கென்று கல்லறை கட்டிக்கொண்டவர்கள் ஒரு சிலர் உண்டு. சில விபரமான பெரியவர்கள் இது என் மரணத்திற்குப் பயன்படுத்தும் என்று தொகைகூட எடுத்து வைப்பது உண்டு. ஆனால் இவ்வளவு முன்னேற்பாடும், சிந்தனையும் எங்கள் நாட்டில் நினைத்துக்கூடப் பார்க்க முடியாது.”

“இங்கு அப்படி அல்ல. அவரவர் செலவுகளை அவரவர் பார்த்துக் கொள்ள வேண்டியதுதான் என்கிற மேலைநாட்டுக் கலாசாரம் இங்கும் எப்படியோ நுழைந்துவிட்டது. அது மட்டுமல்ல, இறுதிச் சடங்குகளுக்கான செலவு இங்கு மிகமிக அதிகம். தங்கள் தலைமுறைக்கு தாங்கள் அதிகம் செலவழிப்பது இல்லை; செலவு வைப்பதும் இல்லை என்பதால் இந்த ஏற்பாடு.”

“இந்த அணுகுமுறை எனக்கு வியப்பைத் தருகிறதே தவிர, மகிழ்வைத் தரவில்லை.”

“ஏன் அப்படிச் சொல்கிறீர்கள்?”

“இது ஒரு கலாசாரம் சார்ந்த விஷயம் என்பதால், என்னால் அதை விரிவாகச் சொல்ல முடியவில்லை.”

“புரியவில்லை.”

“விளக்கினால் எங்கள் கலாசாரத்தைப் பற்றி நான் தம்பட்டமடிக்க வேண்டியிருக்கும். அது உங்கள் கலாசாரத்தைக் குறைத்து மதிப்பிடுவதாக ஆகிவிடும்.”

“பரவாயில்லை சொல்லுங்கள்.”

“கஷ்டமோ நஷ்டமோ, ஏழையோ பணக்காரனோ, அவரவர் சக்திக்கு உட்பட்டு, தங்கள் பெற்றோர் அல்லது தாத்தாபாட்டியின் இறுதிக் காரியங்களை, அடுத்த தலைமுறையினர் எடுத்துச் செய்வார்களே தவிர, உரியவர்களேதான் பார்த்துக்கொள்ள வேண்டும் என்று எதிர்பார்க்கமாட்டார்கள்.”

“இது உங்கள் கலாசாரத்தைப் பற்றி நீங்கள் பெருமைப்பட்டுக் கொள்ள வேண்டிய விஷயம்தான். நான் இது தொடர்பாக ஒரு கேள்வி கேட்க நினைத்தேன். உங்கள் பதிலிலேயே அதற்கும் உள்பதில் இருந்தது.”

“என்ன கேள்வி அது?”

“எங்கள் மக்கள் மரணத்தைப் பற்றி எப்படி முன்னேற்பாட்டுடன் சிந்திக்கிறார்கள் பார்த்தீர்களா? என்றுதான் கேட்க நினைத்தேன்.”

“ஹாஹா! ஆமாம். என்னையுமறியாமல் இதற்கு விடை சொல்லிவிட்டேன் பார்த்தீர்களா? மரணம் நிகழும்போது நிகழட்டும்; அது வருகிறபோது வரட்டும். அதைப்பற்றிய சிந்தனையோ முன்னேற்பாடோ தேவையில்லை; அது அடுத்த தலைமுறையின் கவலை. அது பார்த்துக்கொள்ளும் என்று கவலையை உதறிவிட்டு அக்கடா என்று இருப்பது எங்கள் சமூகம்.”

“இங்கு அப்படி இருக்க முடியாது. உன் சாவுக்கு என்ன ஏற்பாடு செஞ்சே என்று கேட்டுத் துளைத்து எடுத்துவிடுவார்கள். வாழும்போது வாழ்வதற்கு மட்டுமல்ல, மரணத்திற்கும் சேர்த்துச் சம்பாதிக்கிறவர்கள் நாங்கள்” என்று சொல்லிவிட்டுப் பெரிதாகக் குரலிட்டுக் கெக்கே பிக்கே என்று சிரித்தார் ஷான்யான்.

அந்த அமைதியான தெருவில் தொலைதூரத்தில் சென்ற ஒரு சிலர்கூடித் திரும்பப் பார்த்தார்கள் இவரது சிரிப்பலைகளைக் கேட்டு.

“என்னம்மா நான் சொல்றது சரிதானே?” என்று மகள்களைப் பார்த்துக் கேட்டுவிட்டு மறுபடி ஒரு கெக்கேபிக்கேவை உதிர்க்க, காரில் முத்தமிட்ட டினுவும் மூனும் இப்போது அவரை அடிக்கக் கைகளை ஓங்கிக் கொண்டு வந்தார்கள். இவரும் அவர்களிடமிருந்து தப்பிக்கிறவர்போல் பாவனை செய்து அங்குமிங்கும் ஓடினார்.

‘நாங்கள் அப்படியல்ல’ என்பது அவர்கள் அடிக்க வந்ததன் பொருள்.

உண்மையில் ஷான்யானின் குடும்பம் வித்தியாசமான குடும்பம்தான். நம்மவர்களைப்போல் பாசப்பின்னணியின் அடிப்படையில் உருவான குடும்பம் என்றும், இந்தக் குடும்பம் மட்டும் இந்தியக் குடும்பப் பின்னணியைக் கொண்டிருக்கிறதே என்றும் உள்ளுக்குள் வியந்தேன்.

போகிற வழியில் ஒரு தேநீர்க் கடையில் அமர்ந்தோம். தைவானியத் தேயிலை மிகப் பிரபலம். உலகில் தேயிலை ஏற்றுமதி செய்யும் முன்னணி நாடுகளுள் தைவானும் ஒன்று. எனவே, இங்கு வகை வகையான தேநீர்கள் கிடைக்கின்றன. (தேநீர் என்கிற சொல்லின் பயன்பாட்டை முதன்முதலில் தமிழில் அறிமுகப்படுத்தியவர் என் தந்தை தமிழ்வாணன்தான் என்று ஒரு பழம் வாசகர் சொன்னார். உண்மைதானா என்று உறுதி செய்யுங்கள்!)

, என்றெல்லாம் ஷான்யான் குடும்பம் ஆர்டர் செய்தது.

ஒரு மடக்கு மது, ஒரு மடக்குத் தேநீர் என்று ஷான்யான் ஏகமாய்க் குடித்துக்கொண்டே இருந்தார்.

“நீங்க?” என்றார்.

“வேண்டாம். பழக்கமில்லை.”

“நான் மதுவைக் கேட்கவில்லை. தேநீரைக் கேட்டேன்.”

“தேநீரும் சாப்பிடுவது இல்லை.”

“தேநீர் கூடவா? வாழ்வின் பெரிய சுகத்தை இழந்துகொண்டிருக்கிறீர்கள்” என்ற ஷான்யானின் முகம் சற்றே விகாரமாக மாற ஆரம்பித்தது. பேச்சில் குழறல் இருந்தது.

மதுவின் தாக்கத்திற்கு அவர் ஆளாகியிருப்பது எனக்குப் புரிய ஆரம்பித்தது.

இப்படியே விட்டால், இவர் சாய்ந்து சரிந்துவிடுவார்போல் தோன்றியது.

(தொடரும்)

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2009/03/27 கொல்கிறதே இந்தக் குடும்பம்

2009/03/20 மூன்று பெண்கள் நடுவே மாட்டிக் கொண்டு…

2009/03/13 நகைக் கடையில் காத்திருந்த அதிர்ச்சி!

2009/03/06 தைவானியக் கிழவர்களை நம்ப முடியாது!

2009/02/27 கைப்பையால் தர்ம அடி வாங்கிய இளைஞன்!

2009/2/20 இரு தைவானியர்கள் கொடுத்த இரு சொல் சூடு!

2009/02/13 பாம்புக் கடைகளை நோக்கி ஒரு நெளியல் நடை!

2009/02/06 என்னைப் பாவிப் பய என்று திட்டுபவர்கள் யார்?

2009/01/30 நம்மவர்கள் தைவானியர்களிடம் கற்க வேண்டிய பாடம்!

2009/01/23 தமிழகப் பாணியில் ஒரு தைவானிய டாக்சி அனுபவம்!

2009/01/16 எட்டு எனக்கு லட்டு!

2009/01/09 தைவானியர்களிடம் உள்ள ஒரு வித்தியாசமான பழக்கம்!

2009/01/02 சாதிக்கும் இந்திய மாணவர்கள்!

2008/12/26 லேனா சாரை டின்னு கட்டிடுவாங்க!

2008/12/19 தமிழக மாணவர்களுடன் அடித்த அரட்டை!

2008/12/12 சுரேஷ்குமார் சிந்திய விஷமப் புன்னகை!

2008/12/05 அந்தத் தொழிலைக் கை விட்ட அழகு!

2008/11/28 மாணவ மாணவியர் நெருக்கம் அநியாயம்!

2008/11/21 கேரனுக்கு ஏற்பட்ட வியப்பு!

2008/11/14 இங்கிதம் அறியா இங்கிலாந்துப் பெண்மணி!

2008/11/07 தைவானில் கிடைத்த ஓர் இரசிகை!

2008/10/31 தைவானியர்கள் சமாமானியர்கள் அல்லர்!

2008/10/24 காதில் விழுந்த சவுக்கடி வாக்கியம்!

2008/10/17 தைப்பேயில் கேட்ட தேன் தமிழ்!

2008/10/10 தைப்பேயில் நிலவும் பேய்த்தனமான ஓட்டல் வாடகைகள்!

2008/10/03 தைவானியர்கள் மீது வந்த கோபம்!

2008/09/26 இந்தியர்கள் என்றால் இளக்காரமா?

2008/09/19 இந்தியா சீனாவுக்குப் பயப்படும் விஷயம்!

2008/09/12 இடி மன்னர்கள் பாடு ஜாலிதான்!

2008/09/05 கைப் பிடித்த சிங்கப்பூர்ப் பெண்மணி!

2008/08/29 வளைகுடாவிற்காக விதிகள் வளையுமா?

2008/08/22 சீனச் சாதனைகளின் பின்னணி என்ன?

2008/08/15 மனத்திற்குள் வெடித்த பிரமிப்பு வெடி!

2008/08/08 இது வளமையா அல்லது வறுமையிலும் நேர்மையா?

2008/08/01 கன்பூஷியஸ் கோயிலைப் பார்த்தபோது ஏற்பட்ட ஏக்கம்!

2008/07/25 சீன ஒலிம்பிக்கினால் நமக்கு வரப்போகும் சிக்கல்!

2008/07/18 முஸ்லீம்களைப் புறக்கணிக்கும் சீன அரசு

2008/07/11 மக்களை ஏமாற்றாத அரசு, அரசை ஏமாற்றாத விவசாயிகள்!

2008/07/04 சீனத்தில் மாணவர்களின் விருப்பத்திற்கு மதிப்பு இல்லை!

2008/06/27 சீனப் பள்ளி மாணவிகளின் பையில் அதிரவைக்கும் பொருள்!

2008/06/20 வாங்குனா வாங்கு! வாங்காக் காட்டிப் போ!

2008/06/13 சீனாவும் பார்த்தமாதிரி ஆச்சு! சீப்பா பொருள் வாங்கிய மாதிரியும் ஆச்சு!

2008/06/06 சீனாவில் கல்வி நினைத்துப் பார்க்க முடியாத ஒன்று

2008/05/30 பெண்களின் நான்கு குணங்களின் வரிசையை மாற்றியமைத்த சீனப் பெண்கள்

2008/05/23 சீனர்கள் வியந்த தமிழ்மொழி!

2008/05/16 நான்சிங் தெரு எனும் அசிங்கத் தெரு

2008/05/09 ”பொண்ணுங்க தொல்லை தாங்க முடியாது”

2008/05/02 விடிய விடிய விளையாடும் சீனர்கள்!

2008/04/25 கடுப்பு ஏற்படுத்தாத கடுப்பு!

2008/04/18 சீனாவிற்கு வந்ததே சாப்பிடத்தானா?

2008/04/11 நிற்காமல் கடந்து போன லி எக்ஸ்பிரஸ்

2008/04/04 பங்குதாரர்களுக்குள் இருக்க வேண்டிய புரிந்துணர்வு!

2008/03/28 எங்களால் சிரி சிரி என்று சிரித்த சீனப் பெண்மணிகள்…

2008/03/21 அட, என் முன்னோடிகளா…

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